Item: UV defense me. Calming tone up sun cream [SPF50+/PA++++]
Rating: 5
Author: jj*******

June 3, 2021 Make P:rem UV Defense Me Calming Tone-up Sun Cream The Hwahae Testers Review **This review includes product usage experience and comparison with other products. **Attached photos 1 and 4 were taken in natural morning light on a cloudy day, while 2 and 3 were taken under LED lighting. **Before the review, let me describe what I consider to be the ideal tone-up sun product: 1) Calamine + Iron Oxide + Inorganic UV Filters 2) A pink-beige color with high brightness and low saturation These are the types of products I prefer. I tend to feel disappointed with tone-up products that make skin appear excessively white, products with too low or high iron oxide concentration, or those with low brightness or high saturation. <Product Review> ▪️Summary A white tone-up sunscreen that applies thinly with a translucent finish and a milky glow ▪️Key Features 1) White color (with a slight cool undertone, though this may vary from person to person. I often notice a blue tint when using white tone-up products. My skin tends to show both blue and yellow undertones) 2) Applies thinly and translucently. May settle into wrinkles. 3) Can have a strong glow depending on the circumstances. ▪️Ingredients 0 concerning ingredients, 0 potential allergens. No PEGs or BHT. No Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate. For sun/tone-up products (not basic skincare), I'm generally okay with stearic acid, small amounts of PEG, and fragrance, but this only contains stearic acid. (Though I'm not sure if there are any aromatic oils or ingredients used for fragrance...) I don't use products with many common concerning ingredients at all. I applied for The Hwahae Testers program for this product after checking its ingredients, so I used it with some confidence. (Of course, reactions to ingredients can vary greatly, and even products with good ingredients may not suit everyone or may contain ingredients that cause sensitivity. As someone with sensitive skin, I'm always cautious when using any product, but generally safe or good ingredients are a ray of hope for sensitive skin...) ▪️Texture When first squeezed out: A thin cream texture. When applied: Not too runny or thick, spreads smoothly. Good absorption. Feels like a sun milk with a thin application and a balanced oil-moisture content. ▪️Appearance After Application - Applies with a translucent finish that allows your natural skin to show through. It's neither an opaque tone-up/tinted feel nor completely transparent, but rather a semi-translucent, sheer finish. The look after application is similar to a sun milk that needs to be shaken before use... (Semi-translucent feel + the characteristic glow of a milk texture) I believe this product was released after Make P:rem's original calamine sun milk was discontinued. While I'm not sure if it's based on that product, it definitely feels more like a sun 'milk'. (Not like a typical sun 'cream' or sun 'essence'. It's somewhat reminiscent of Mi* or Ane* sun milks..) - Can have a strong glow depending on circumstances. This characteristic is related to the sun milk feel mentioned earlier. If we roughly categorize types of glow as: 1) Light moisturizer glow, 2) Rich moisturizer glow, 3) Milk texture glow This falls into the milk glow category. A slightly glossy glow..? This feature should be focused on the 'visual' glow rather than the oil-moisture balance. Regardless of the product texture or application, the finish doesn't 'feel' like a rich moisturizer on the skin. Visually, it has the characteristic glossy glow of a milk texture. (The visual glow tends to be more prominent than how it actually feels on the skin) This glow 1) may disappear over time, and 2) its extent can vary greatly depending on individual skin type and skincare routine. When I first applied it, the glossy glow reminded me of the Mi* sun milk I used before, and after some time, I could see the glow naturally fading. (I'm not sure if the glow would fade for those with oily skin or those who use very hydrating skincare...) - Tends to settle into wrinkles. Based on my experience, [ 1. Cream textures that aren't matte and have some tackiness tend to 'cover' wrinkles and pores. 2. Products that apply thinly but contain pigments / have a strong glow can visibly emphasize wrinkles and pores. 3. Matte formulas can accentuate wrinkles and pores after setting. ] This product falls into the second category, and wrinkle settling is somewhat visible to the naked eye. However, wrinkle settling really varies case by case, and it's less noticeable on the face compared to areas with more wrinkles like the wrist, so it's not a major concern. It can be managed by applying carefully, using powder, or other methods. Also, since the pigment particles aren't large, some people might not experience any settling at all. I'll discuss the color/tone-up effects in more detail in the comparison review.

<Comparison Review> (Labeled as M, 1, 2 in the photos) From top to bottom in the photos: Make P:rem Calming Tone-up Sun Cream and two products from other brands. Product 1 is a 'white tone-up product with inorganic UV filters' Product 2 is a 'beige tone-up product with inorganic UV filters' **All three products were used in similar amounts, and for a clear comparison, more product was used relative to the application area than normal. In actual use, a smaller amount would be more appropriate, Please note that these photos show a stronger tone-up effect due to the larger amount used relative to the area. Also, keep in mind that this is not a representation of actual use, but rather a 'comparison' under similar conditions. Similar amounts of all three products were applied with similar rolling times and frequency. (For product 1, which normally requires a very small amount, using more than the appropriate amount led to somewhat surprising results...) ▪️Color and Tone-up Effect 🔹Make P:rem: White or slightly cool-toned white tone-up (some may not notice the cool tone. I tend to show both cool and warm undertones). Slightly increases brightness. A natural, translucent tone-up that allows the original skin to show through. 🔹Product 1: (Cool-toned) white tone-up. Brightness can be adjusted depending on the amount applied. Feels more like a tone-up that sits on the skin rather than a translucent finish. (Due to the large amount applied, the pigments appear to clump, which doesn't happen with a smaller amount..) 🔹Product 2: Beige tone-up. Slightly increases brightness. (In my case, there was quite a difference between how this looked on my wrist versus my face... It felt oddly heavy on my face, but the swatch on my wrist looked fine, which was surprising) * Comparison between white and beige tone-up products Generally, white-toned products give a brighter and more radiant look, and depending on the formula, allow for brightness adjustment or easy layering. Beige-toned products have the advantage of a natural, less artificial color, with the characteristic coverage of iron oxides. They usually don't allow for much brightness adjustment and require more care when layering. - Summary of the Make P:rem product 'A translucent white tone-up that naturally increases brightness slightly' <Regarding Other Points for Improvement> There aren't really any disappointing aspects compared to other products, There are some minor points when compared to the ideal tone-up sun product criteria. However, it's hard to call these 'flaws' in the product, They're more like 'differences from desired characteristics'. I believe this product was aimed at being a 'light and thin formula with good absorption and a translucent tone-up', so there are no disappointments in terms of that identity. I don't think including iron oxides or having a thicker texture was ever the goal for this product. As a 'thin and translucent tone-up sunscreen', there are no disappointments.

<Bonus... Reflections on Tone-up Sun Products> This is not a product review. You can skip this part if you want. *** What I consider to be the most ideal tone-up sun product 1) Calamine + Iron Oxide + Inorganic UV Filters 2) A pink-beige color with high brightness and low saturation (A bright pink-beige suitable for about shade 13 skin tone, with appropriate brightness and low saturation) *** Disappointments after using various tone-up products. I don't like: {Tone-up products that make skin excessively white, Products with too low or too high iron oxide concentration, Products with low brightness or high saturation, Formulas that are too thin / tone-up effects that are too transparent, Formulas that are too matte / tone-up effects that feel heavy} For iron oxide concentration, if it's too low it's barely noticeable, but if it's too high it feels heavy... While the product's identity is a 'sun product' rather than a 'foundation', I think it's appropriate to have just a tiny bit of coverage (enough to slightly blur redness or red spots). However, it's absolutely not okay to load it with yellow iron oxide for red coverage. It should maintain a fair pink-beige. I can't accept a yellowish color. *** The tone-up sun product I wish would be released A tone-up sun product that adds a very slight coverage with iron oxides (not heavy like a base product, just a natural, subtle coverage) + Maintains a fair look and high brightness with ingredients like calamine, zinc, titanium, etc. As I've mentioned in other reviews, I'm quite passionate about tone-up sunscreens, colors, and formulas... Especially for color, I'd like to send RGB values to the product development team.. For the formula, I'd like to see a cream texture with just the right consistency - not too thin (which results in zero tone-up/coverage), and not too matte, heavy, or suffocating... To add more about ingredients, I try to avoid as much as possible: Concerning ingredients, allergens, Organic UV filters like ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, BHT, Aromatic oils and other potentially irritating ingredients. However, since it's a tone-up sun product, I'm somewhat tolerant of PEGs or fragrances. I've written so much because I'm passionate about tone-up sunscreens. As a consumer, I hope for an ideal tone-up sun product to be released, and I think it's important for companies to understand consumer needs...^^; I think if I write in detail, maybe someday these opinions will be considered in product development.. Honestly, while this is my personal opinion, I think the combination of calamine + iron oxide + inorganic UV filters would be preferred by most people.. (I also think the color tone I want, in terms of base color and saturation, would be universally preferred...) Well.. This has been a long text, but I'll end by leaving a love confession to the product development team.